Fish Health Care

There are some simple steps that you can take to ensure the good health of your cold water fish.

Coldwater fish in nature live in rivers, ponds and lakes in temperate climes and therefore don’t usually require a heated tank. They are the least expensive to set up and maintain, only requiring an ample sized tank, a good filtration system and, if you decide to grow live water plants, some type of aquarium lighting. Coldwater fish have always been popular with children and beginners but also have a big following from expert enthusiasts who specialize in rare and beautiful natural breeds of fish such as the Fancy Goldfish and Koi varieties.

Maintaining the water quality is the most important factor in keeping fish healthy. Check the water regularly and regularly carry out a partial water change. Coldwater fish tend to produce large quantities of waste and benefit from good filtration.

When changing water siphon 10 - 20% of the water out of the tank and replace it with new water which has been de-chlorinated.

By providing your fish with good quality water, ensuring the tank is properly filtered, correct feeding and maintaining a clean aquarium, your fish should remain healthy. If you observe any changes in behaviour or unusual spots or markings on your fish they may need treatment. Please ask a member of Pets at Home staff for advice.

Common Ailments of Fish...?

New Tank Syndrome

It is possible for fish recently introduced to an established aquarium, to die within the first few days. Deaths may be the result of a sudden change in water chemistry or quality. It is essential that you check the chemistry of your tank before you introduce new members so you can be sure that they can easily acclimatise. Always introduce fish into their new home gradually.

Poisoning

Many domestic chemicals, such as paint fumes and household cleaners, are highly toxic to fish. If your aquarium becomes contaminated with one of these it could potentially have fatal consequences. If an accident occurs you should re-house the fish while you thoroughly clean the tank.

How many fish can I keep in my tank?

With any fish, coldwater or tropical, having enough space to live happily is vital and over stocked tanks are common. With all fish, living with bullies is stressful enough, without being cramped up together in a small tank. So to ensure you create a happy community in your tank always ask advice before purchasing any new fish to check everyone will get on. There are no exact rules to how many fish you can fit into one tank but following this guide can be useful, but remember, always take into account how big your fish will grow.

African Greys aka Grey Parrots

• African Grey Species
• The Nature of Grey: Personality & Care Requirements
• African Grey Diet / Nutrition
• African Grey Diseases
• Bird Care Requirements / Tips before Buying
• Pet Bird Photos ... Photos of a Timneh African Grey Chick - from days old to several months of age



• Are you looking for an African Grey? Click here for a listing of breeders

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Overview

Provided by Dr. Rob Marshall

Originating from central Africa, the African Grey is a highly intelligent parrot and requires a committed and patient owner. Alongside the Eclectus, these birds are one of the most intelligent parrot species and possess the ability to develop a large vocabulary and communicate efficiently with their owner.

Description:

The African Grey Parrot is a medium-sized parrot between 10 to 14 inches/30cm long (Congo subspecies) of the genus Psittacus.

Average Weight & ID:

• Congo African Grey: 380 to 554 grams (light grey plumage - red tail)
• Timneh African Grey: 300 to 360 grams (darker / charcoal grey plumage - maroon tail)

Plumage:

As the name implies, the African Grey parrot is predominantly grey, with accents of white and a red or maroon tail depending on the subspecies, and the area around eyes is usually white.

Feet:

Greys, like all parrots, are zygodactyl, having 4 toes on each foot—two front and two back.

Possible Mutations / Different Colorations:

African Greys with red feathers scattered throughout the plumage are occasionally seen. Such birds are often referred to as " Kings "or "King Greys" and are marketed as more exotic and desirable. However, such red feathers scattered in areas where you wouldn't expect them can be an indication of damaged feather follicles (usually because of feather plucking), medication (for example administration of antibiotics at the time a bird is molting has caused temporary changes in feather coloration - these feathers are usually replaced with normal coloration feathers at the next molt). There is also a good possibility of sickness, malnutrition or over-supplementation (please refer to african grey nutrition), liver disease or kidney problems. Although it is possibly that genetics is involved and that it is a mutation. It is easy enough to differentiate that -- depending on whether an African Grey developed these red feathers over time (which would be an indication of health problems), or whether they were born with it, which would point towards genetics / mutation.

A white-tailed mutation has been bred in New York City - please refer to the below photo. i will email you some photos. The blue mutation turns the red tail and rump white. Since greys are grey and hence lack psittacine, they don't actually turn blue (information provided by Lien Luu - breeder of this mutation.

For additional information on african grey species, please visit this webpage.

Chart provided by Dr. Rob Marshall

African Grey Psittacus erithacus

Size: Up to 45cm

Pet Status: Excellent

Talking Ability: Excellent

Noise Level: High

Lifespan: 40-60 years

Breeding Ability: Good

Number of Eggs: 2-4 eggs

Incubation: 21-30 days

Compatibility with other species: Good with other equally intelligent birds (ie. Eclectus)

Feeding: Seed and Fruit Eaters

Health Programmes: Follow the Parrot Health Programme.

Sexing: Cock is often larger than the hen. Surgical or DNA sexing is required. .

Gender Identification: Male or Female

Generally, males are bigger than females being about 12-14 inches at length. There are certain differences between sexes with females having a more slender neck and a narrower head.

• Avianweb Notes: It has been hypothethized that the bare patch around the eye of the female is rounded posteriorly, but ends in a point in the male.

African Greys as Pets

African Greys are beautiful, intelligent parrots, that would make a wonderful addition to any family who fully understands their capabilities and provides them with a stimulating, interactive environment. Building a relationship takes lots of love, time and patience.

Due to their highly intelligent nature, the African Grey can become easily bored and inactivity may quickly lead to behavioural problems such as feather picking. African Greys that are bored have a tendency to chews things and consistent training and a diligent owner are a must for this vivacious bird.

These intelligent birds are best suited to people who have experience with pet birds and are familiar with their ongoing care requirements.

If you fulfill his or her needs, you will have a lifelong friend - as the lifespan of an African Grey is up to 60 years. A big commitment, however, if you are a true parrot lover you will appreciate having a true friend for life.

African grey parrots are particularly noted for their exceptional talking and cognitive abilities. Irene Pepperberg's extensively published research with captive African greys, including Alex, has shown that these parrots are capable of associating human words with their meanings.They also mimick sounds and voices quite accurately. (This chart lists other good and bad talkers, and respective care requirement.)

This video shows the research on parrot intelligence with the now deceased and utterly missed African Grey, Alex. Dr. Pepperberg also gives some valuable insight into parrot behavior and tips on providing healthy mental stimulation.

Training and Behavioral Guidance:

African Greys are amongst the easier parrots to keep. This being said, they do present challenges, such as excessive chewing - especially at certain stages in their life. They do discover their beaks as method of "disciplining us" once they are out of the "baby stage" and they can generally be somewhat naughty, and it really is important to learn to understand them and to guide their behavior before an undesirable behavior has been established. Undisciplined parrots will chew on electric wiring potentially causing house fires. They regard anything in your home as a "toy" that can be explored and chewed on; destroying items that you may hold dear or are simply valuable. Even a young bird that has not been neglected and abused requires proper guidance; this becomes even more challenging when it involves a rescued bird that may require rehabilitation.

• Web Resources: I put together web resources for you to help you understand your pet bird and properly direct him. Please visit this website for valuable tips on parrot behavior and training.



• If you are, as I am, a visual learner and prefer step-by-step instructions to train your pet, I recommend:
  
  • the Parrot Training Course to teach your parrot to:
    • Stop Biting
    • Perform Tricks &
    • Tame ANY SIZE bird you could possibly own
  • and/or try the "Teach Your Parrot to Talk" Training Course.

Diet:

In the wild, they feed primarily on nuts and fruits, supplemented by leafy matter. However, captive-bred African Greys are often fed a diet of seeds, grain, pellets* and fruits / veggies. African Greys are often inflicted with calcium deficiencies, and I found it challenging to get my African Greys to eat from their cuddlebones. My solution was to scrape it over their daily soft food. This method worked well for me. Grinding up egg shells and mixing that in with the soft food is also a great way to increase your Grey's calcium consumption.

• Please also refer to:
  • The Nature oF Grey: Personality & Care Requirements
  • African Grey Nutrition

*Please note: When feeding pellets to your pet, please be aware of the fact that overly feeding citrus fruits (including oranges) or vitamin-C-rich foods to your birds can lead to "Iron Overload Disease" as vitamin C increases the amount of iron absorbed from foods.

Breeding African Greys:

African Greys are amongst the most popular companion birds because of their talking / mimicking ability that is endearing to pet owners. The life expectancy for an African Grey is sixty to ninety years and they continue to produce for their lifetime.

As males and females look alike, it's best to have them DNA sexed to ensure that you set up true pairs. Some breeders state that they can visually sex african greys by the shape of their heads and size of the beak, but these are educated guesses at best. DNA sexing is inexpensive (around $20) - it really isn't worth taking wasting time by potentially setting up incompatible pairs.

Most breeders agree that an L-shaped box set up in a quiet area of the breeding cage / aviary works best. Suspended California breeding cages - (minimum dimensions: two feet wide by three feet high by six feet deep) - are a good choice. Visual barriers between the cages are recommended - unless there is at least two feet of space between the cages. Any closer spacing without barriers results in territorial competition with constant sparring between the males. Securely fastened and stable perches are necessary for mating. These can be 3/4 of an inch to 3 inches in diameter. The variation in width provides for exercise for the birds' feet. Also install at least one cement-type perch to help keep their nails trimmed. Place this grooming perch in an area the parrots spend a good part of their time (maybe by the feeding station).

African Greys normally mate several times a day for several weeks before the first egg is laid. A clutch may average 2 to 5 eggs. It's best not to bother the parents too much; maybe check the nesting box once a day when the parents are eating. You don't want to risk abandoned or broken eggs. The chicks should hatch 28 to 30 days later. Just before hatching, breeders note that the food consumption of the parent birds drastically increase as they physically prepare themselves for the demanding job of raising the chicks and are “stocking up” on food reserves that will be needed for feeding the chicks.

You may want to pull the chicks for hand feeding when they are about 15 to 21 days old. All chicks must be removed together. African Grey parents will not care for a single chick left in the nest. Also, they are very protective of their chicks, therefore, special precaution have to be taken when removing the chicks as the parents will be aggressive. The best way may be to use a bird net to scoop up the babies. Maybe use a magazine or books to separate the parents from the chicks. If the parents were outside the nest box (which is the best scenario) – close the nest box entrance hole off with a magazine or piece of wood, while scooping up the chicks. Weang gloves to protect the hands from the parents' attacks is not recommended, as the chicks require gentle handling and you need to be able to touch and feel them or risk dropping or accidentally hurting them in other ways.

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If you are considering one of these magnificent parrots as pets, please visit the following websites for information:

• Procuring your Parrot


• African Grey Breeders

  Do you breed this species and would like to be listed? Click here to see your options.

• Housing Your Bird
• The Three Key Elements to Your Bird's Health & Happiness
• Training Your Bird
• Bird Nutrition
• Parrot Products

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An African Adventure: Tracking Forest Elephants

May 27, 2003

Dr. Sharon Deem, Associate Veterinarian at the National Zoo, recently returned to Washington, D.C., after a trip to Africa, where she was helping with a project on forest elephants. We asked Dr. Deem to share with us some details of this exciting trip.

Welcome back. Where exactly did you go on this trip?

I traveled to the Republic of Congo, which is in central Africa, in late March and early April. Congo is a French-speaking country because it was once a French colony and still has many ties with France. I camped out in the forest for two weeks during this trip.

After a couple days of logistical preparations in Brazzaville, the capital, I traveled to Ouesso in the north of Congo. I worked with a team of scientists, Drs. Stephen Blake of the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) and Robin Radcliffe of Fossil Rim Wildlife Center, as well as local trackers Mambele, Mossimbo, Adouma, and Monyaka, who are members of the Bambenjelle people, and a Bantu-speaking Kaka (another local people) field assistant, Sylvan. From Ouesso, we moved into and around the forest by boat, land rover, and by hiking to a variety of campsites.

Why did you go to the Republic of Congo to search for elephants?

I went to help with monitoring of forest elephants. In Congo, these elephants travel in the national parks as well as in areas that are increasingly inhabited by people. My job on this trip was to immobilize and anesthetize elephants so that a biologist could place GPS (Global Positioning System) telemetry collars on them. These collars, which weigh nearly 30 pounds, will be used to monitor where the elephants travel and determine how much space they need to travel in. This, in turn, will be used to determine how much land must be protected to ensure sufficient living space for these wild animals.

Sharon Deem with an anesthetized elephant. (Photo by Steve Blake.)

On this trip did you work with the people who live in the same area of Congo as elephants do?

Elephant studies in the region have been going on for years. During our trips to this area, the people who live in the nearby villages have helped us learn to better find, or track, the elephants in the forest. This is a surprisingly difficult task. Although the elephants often weigh as much as 2,500 kilograms [5,500 pounds], it’s not easy to find them in the dense forest. We, in turn, worked closely with the villagers to share with them the importance of conserving the forest animals.

What were the most exciting moments on the trip?

Searching for elephants is always exciting, because you never know when you will find one at a bai—a big wet, grassy clearing in the forest. The trick to finding forest elephants is to search around bais and sites where they come to drink water.

Immobilizing an elephant is always exciting, because it involves standing very close to these large animals, usually only 50 meters [165 feet] away, to safely administer the anesthesia. The first bull that I anesthetized on this trip was standing in a bai with water about three feet deep. I had to walk into the edge of the water and stand behind a small bush.

An elephant in a bai. (Photo by Steve Blake.)

I knew I had to remain perfectly still so he did not know where I was standing as I shot the light-weight dart that delivered the anesthesia. This bull splashed water all about with his trunk and body. Three minutes felt like hours as we waited to see where he would go. He ran to the water’s edge and into the forest.

For 15 minutes we tracked him, with the Bambenjelle trackers leading the way through the forest. It was important to find the elephant right away because we wanted to be sure the anesthesia was safely administered.

Anesthesia of any wild animal, whether in the zoo or the wild, requires knowledge of the species' physiology and knowledge of the anesthetic drugs that are safe for that species. Knowing the physiology and safe drugs is crucial to help minimize risk to both the animal and to the humans who work on this.

What do you hope to learn from your trip?

The monitoring data that we will get from these telemetry collars over the next two years will show us where these elephants live and travel. We will work with our colleagues in Congo to determine how the areas that the elephants travel overlap with the areas where people live, and use this information to help ensure the long-term conservation of forest elephants.

A group of forest elephants in a bai. (Photo by Sharon Deem.)

Also, when I anesthetize free-ranging wild animals such as the forest elephant, I collect samples (such as blood, ectoparasites, feces, and skin biopsies) to perform health assessments of the animals. There are very few baseline health data on some of the world's most endangered species in the wild. I believe that the conservation of a species is as much about maintaining the proper health of individuals and populations as it is about preserving habitat.

Visitors to the Zoo can learn about conservation efforts such as the elephant telemetry project. When they are watching the animals that live here at the Zoo, they can think about the areas where these animals live (this will be even easier when the geo-centric new areas are completed, including Asia Trail and Africa House) to understand threats to their survival in the wild, and to think about how they can help the long-term conservation of declining species.

When you are not traveling, what is your daily job at the Zoo?

As Associate Veterinarian at the National Zoo, I provide health care to the Zoo's 2,800 animals. In any one day, I may treat anything from a skin infection in a frog to a foot lesion in a rhino. I love the challenge of providing preventive and therapeutic medicine to animals of diverse species.

I also provide veterinary support to conservation field projects around the world. I enjoy knowing that my veterinary skills and knowledge are directly applied to the conservation of free-ranging animals in their habitats, and to helping ensure the long-term health of a variety of species around the globe.

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Before joining to the National Zoo staff, Sharon Deem was field veterinarian with the Wildlife Conservation Society. Read her reports from the field:

Forest Elephants, 2000

Leatherback Turtles and Forest Elephants in Central Africa, 2001

Health & Wellness

Health and Wellness: Access to Wellbeing

Overview

The World Health Organization defines health as a state of complete physical, mental, and social well-being and not merely the absence of disease or infirmity. Eating right, exercising, and sleeping well play an equal role in the prevention of infections and diseases. However, a good sense of self, a loving support network, and the potential for continued personal growth is also important to our overall wellbeing.

Many of us are not in control of the factors that cause us to become ill whether they be genetic, environmental, or something else entirely. There are many avenues we can take to improving our health, which include the use of traditional and modern medicines when we are ill.

Super Herbal Tips for Pets

I may suggest the following home remedies and tips for pet dogs. These work well in most case but some discretion is always suggested and advised.

In case your dog is suffering from the common problem of ticks or fleas then I suggest the following home remedy. Grind a few orange rinds to a paste and apply on fur. Keep on for, four to five hours and see the ticks and fleas vanish. Easy isn’t it? This remedy is effective in most case and is easy to make and apply. It is completely herbal and also safe for most dogs.

Another pre-emptive measure and also an effective treatment for the problem of fleas and ticks in your pet dogs’ coat, involve its diet. Try to add two to three finely chopped garlic flakes to its food. Mix well into the food and let the pet eat it. This is very effective measure against the dog getting ticks in its fur.

Many dogs have cracked and dry paws. An effective low cost treatment is to apply petroleum jelly or Vaseline to its paws. Apply daily for two to five days and the cracked and dry paws will smoothen out. As the cracked paws heel, the dogs behavior will see an improvement also.

Do try to add a few drops of vinegar to your dogs’ bath water. This will keep his coat smelling sweet. No more bad smells or unhygienic odour. This is an easy and effective home remedy for a common problem.

It is difficult to keep the dog clean and hygienic during winters. The dog avoids taking a bath and consequently gets dirty and can be a source of infection for the family. In this case, try using soda bicarbonate on its fur as a dry shampoo. Rub vigorously and the dog will come out clean.

To deter a puppy from chewing furniture legs, wipe the legs with a little clove oil. The puppy will stop chewing them. The furniture will stay safe and sound while the puppy learns to use something else.

A common problem in households having pets is the falling hair that keeps sticking and adhering to various articles. To pick up the pets hair, from a blanket or furnishing fabric, wet a sponge and run it over the article. The hair will stick to the damp sponge and the article will look as good as new.

I hope you find these tips useful. Do experiment a bit to check what will work best for your pet. Best of luck.

antibiotics

agrogenta® 11 Injectable Solution Wide spectrum aminoglucoside	agromox l.a. 15 injectable suspension semisinthetic penicillin	agromycin 11 Injectable Solution Wide spectrum Tetracycline	agromycin 20 L.A. injectable solution Long-Action Tetracycline	agrosona® Injectable solution Tetracycline-Corticoid association
amoxi-tabs C® 250 coated tablets antibiotic with bacterial inhibitor	cefa-milk® Intra mammary Suspension Wide spectrum antibiotic	cefa-milk® forte Intramammary Suspension Antibiotic - antinflammatory combination	cefa-sec® Intramammary Suspension antibiotic combination for dry cows	cipro-tabs 250 Tablets wide spectrum antibacterial
diflovet® 10 injectable solution new generation aryl fluoroquinolonic	duramycin 300 L.A. injectable solution high concentration, extra long action	enroflox 10 injectable solution broad spectrum fluorquinolone	enroflox 20 l.a. injectable solution long acting fluorquinolone	metri-cef® 3 intrauterine suspension intrauterine suspension for cows
otiderma-cef antibacterial and anti-inflammatory combination	proxifen® 23 L.A. Injectable Solution Long antibiotic and non steroid antinflammatory action	qrex® Injectable suspension cephalosporinic antibiotic	tylo-combisone® Injectable Solution Antibiotics, antinflammatory, antihistaminic

learn about cheeta

About the Cheetah

The world's fastest land animal, the cheetah, is a unique and the most specialized member of the cat family and can reach speeds of 70 mph. Unlike other cats, the cheetah has a leaner body, longer legs, and has been referred to as the greyhound of the cats. It is not an aggressive animal, using flight versus fight. With its weak jaws and small teeth, the price it paid for speed, it cannot fight larger predators to protect its kill or young. Read more.

Learn all there is to know about the cheetah, its habitat in Namibia and the work CCF is doing to save this magnificent cat. Take a Tour of our Education Center by clicking on one of the links below:

• Click here to begin the Graphical Tour.
• Click here to begin the Text-based Tour.

You can listen to a cheetah chirp! Click here (MP3 file) and if necessary click your Back button to return.

Watch this National Geographic Video "Animal Mothers: Cheetah vs. Gemsbok."

Our Birds Need Your Help!

It’s May, which means it’s the perfect time for many of us birders to get outside and spot some of the beautiful migrants who fly through our communities on their way North for the Summer. From waterfowl to warblers, many wonderful opportunities for great birding present themselves this time of year.

Like myself, many of you may have observed both shifting ranges and declining numbers among various species in recent decades. You might recall my previous post about the Audubon report that found many species of bird wintering further North as a result of climate change. This coincided with the State of the Birds report, which found birds across the spectrum declining in numbers.

While both of these reports were sobering, there is something you can do to help! Next week several bird and environmental organizations, including the Boreal Songbird Initiative, are releasing a petition called Save our Boreal Birds, which will be sent to top Canadian politicians. You don’t have to be Canadian to sign.

Meet the African Lions

$125 Annual Adoption*	Denny Denny was purchased by a private individual from a pet store when he was a cub. He was brutally declawed, causing permanent damage to all four paws, and defanged. Fortunately for Denny, he was confiscated by the Detroit Police Department's Harbormaster Division on Belle Isle, when they discovered his owner jogging with him in the park. Denny arrived at the Detroit Zoological Park on September 14, 1997. Denny, and another lion - victims of the horrendous trade in exotic animals - were sent to PAWS in December 1997. Denny and Pfeiffer will spend the remainder of their lives in the peaceful surroundings at the PAWS sanctuary.
$125 Annual Adoption*	Pfeiffer Pfeiffer was born July 1, 1997. She was purchased by a private individual from a pet store. Declawed and defanged, she has permanent damage to all four paws and malformed joints. She was rescued by the Michigan Anti-Cruelty Society and taken to the Detroit Zoological Park on September 19, 1997. She was given to the DZP on September 24, 1997 by MACS after they obtained legal ownership. Pfeiffer, and Denny – another lion, were victims of the horrendous trade in exotic animals - were sent to PAWS in December 1997. Pfeiffer and Denny will spend the remainder of their lives in the peaceful surroundings at the PAWS sanctuary.
$125 Annual Adoption* PLEASE NOTE: Adoptions are in name only. The animal does not actually go home with you. Donations made via animal adoption are used for the care, feeding and maintenance of the animals.	Sheba Sheba was born at a breeding facility where she and her brother were sold as pets to a man who kept them in his house in Detroit. When the male lion became too difficult for his owner to handle, he was euthanized. Sheba also became more difficult to handle & her owner surrendered her to the Michigan Humane Society when she was only one year old. Sheba now has a large grassy run with trees & lots of toys.

Butterflies

Butterflies

Donald Ekstrom

Butterflies exhibit one of nature's most astounding
phenomena--complete metamorphosis. With its four-stage growth process, the insect changes its physiological makeup: transforming from a lumbering, leaf-chewing machine into a feathery flyer on a liquid diet. Butterflies are terrestrial insects that make up the order Lepidoptera.

The body temperature of a butterfly is subject to ambient temperatures; A butterfly will wait for the sun to warm its wings and body before taking to the air; its flight "season" generally occurs in warm, sunny months. If it's too hot, cloudy, or wet, butterflies will seek the protective cover of plants, rocky crevices, and downed tree limbs. Flower nectar is its primary source of food, but butterflies also drink sap and liquid from rotting fruit, and from mud, which provides needed minerals. When it comes time to place their eggs, each species seeks out specific plants on which the hatching larva will feed.

More than 700 butterfly species occur in the United States, where they are enjoyed by a growing number of butterfly watchers.

Why are butterflies important to birds and the environment?

Butterflies, and especially caterpillars, serve as a source of food for birds. Sharp-eyed birds have the uncanny ability to find camouflaged caterpillars; many bird species--including seed-eating
birds--exploit this seasonal resource by feeding caterpillars to their young in the nest. If a caterpillar goes unnoticed and reaches adulthood as a butterfly, it becomes a beneficial pollinator, carrying pollen from one flower to another as it feeds on nectar.

Both birds and butterflies are vulnerable to habitat loss, which limits sources of food and shelter. Fungicides and herbicides present a risk to a caterpillar eating a treated plant; insecticides intended to kill the smallest of soft-bodied insects, such as aphids, will also kill caterpillars. Pesticides applied to flowering plants will result in nectar tainted with toxic substances that can be fatal to butterflies.

Getting Started: What You Can Do

• Plant a butterfly garden or native wildflower meadow that provides resources for each stage of a butterfly's lifecycle: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. A butterfly garden should include locally native plants that provide foraging needs for adults (nectar); host plants for caterpillars, which begin eating almost immediately after hatching (adults lay their eggs on or near plants that will provide food for the caterpillar); and areas of shelter, such as stone walls, and stick or leaf piles, which offer protective sites for resting adults and overwintering larvae.
• Investigate which native plants in your region will attract the greatest variety of butterflies. Consider targeting the needs of butterflies with declining populations. For species information, contact your local Audubon chapter, native plant society, North American Butterfly Association chapter, or other butterfly club.
• Provide a source of water. Sand and pebbles placed in a shallow pan or in a terracotta flowerpot drip tray and filled with water can serve as a puddle for butterflies. Moist, bare spots in a garden or yard will provide a place for butterflies to get the minerals and other nutrients they need from the mud.